{LJBIURY OF CONGRESS..' 

«i . ^ 

t ^^.// "TT 59 \ 

\ dniteI^t^s of \m\nt ? 



H. MATHESON'S 



SCIENTIFIC m PRACTICAL GUIDE 



KOR THK 



TAILOirS CUTTING DEPARTMENT, 



BEING A COMPLETE TREATISE ON 



MEASUEIKG, DRAFTING, AND MAKIKG-UP, 



IN ALL STYLES 



FRO^VI CHILDHOOD TO OLD ^OE. 



ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS AND ENGRAVINGS. 






THIS GREAT AND UNRIVALED SYSTEM WILL PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL DRAFT 
IN FIVE MINUTES, IF IN THE HANDS OF ANY EXPERT CUTTER. 



NE"\V YORK : 

H. MATHESOT^ 

)R7L 



A' 



/ 
^ ^ 



^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year one tlujiisand eiglit 
h\indred and seventy-one, by H. Matueson, in tlie office of the 
Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 




"i-n^"^ 



co>TTiT:isrTs. 



Pagi 

Preface v. 

Introduction.' vii. 

Preliminary 9 

Measurements 11 

General Remarks 13 

Prelimixarv Instructions in Tailor- 
ing 16 

Diagram No. 1 18 

" " 2 1,9 

' 3 20 

« "4 "'1 

" " 5 22 

" " G 23 

" 7 24 

" 8 25 

" 9 2G 

" 10 27 

" 11 28 

" 12 29 

" 13 30 

" 14 31 

" 15 32 

" " 10 32 

" 17 32 

" 18 32 

" " 19 32 

" 20 33 

" 21 33 



Pace 

Diagram No.22 34 

" 23 34 

" 24 3.5 

" ■ " 25 35 

" 26 36 

" 27 30 

" 28 37 

" 29 38 

•' 30 38 

" 31 39 

" 32 39 

" 33 40 

" 34 40 

" 35 41 

" 36 41 

" 37 41 

" 38 41 

" 39 41 

" 40 42 

" 41 43 

" 42 44 

Tailoring, &c 45 

General Instructions in Tailoring. . . 40 

Instructions in Vest Making 47 

Ditto for Making Pantaloons 48 

How TO Trim, &c 48 

Graduated Tables 51 

Do. for Vests and Pantaloons ......... 62 



PREFACE. 

- ■♦ 

In the following work I have attempted, and I trust with great success, to 
supply my fellow-craftsmen with what long ago I considered as a desideratum, 
namely, a Treatise on ]\Ieasuring, Drafting, &c. While it should give Instructions 
on the Art and Science of Cutting, it should also discuss Tailoring thoroughly in a 
liberal spirit and sound principles. How far I have succeeded is for the Trade or 
the profession to determine. 

In the course of the demonstration various suggestions as to the mode of 
making up, and the means which may be adopted to please the customer's taste as 
well as the fit of his person, have been interspersed. These will be found to be, at 
least, not irrelevant to the olijccts of the work ; and I hojie that amidst these light 
and extemporary digressions something more than mere amusement will be found. 
My aim has been to point to a train of thinking which I have found both useful 
and agreeable in the pursuit of my business, and to induce Tailors and Cutters to 
acquire for themselves some knowledge of the science of Anatomy and the art of 
Drawing, as both will be serviceable for the Cutter at all events, if not for the 
Tailor, and will furnish an immense stock of profitable thought and pleasing recrea- 
tion for leisure time. 

Following the System of Measurement and Drafting general observations are 
given with respect to peculiarly formed persons, which, from the very nature of the 
subject, requires to be treated scientifically and in a practical manner, laid down 
by scientific rules for all foi'ms of persons, and every character of garment in use 
by fashionable gentlemen. I would inculcate the urgent necessity of attending to 
the figure, gait, and bearing of customers, as it will be of incalculable value to the 
Cutter to attend to those observations. There is one circumstance which requires 
particularly to be noted, which is only the one mode of demonstration used in all 
parts of the work, as in Boys' and full grown Men's clothing. 

I have adopted a plain but a correct narrative form of demonstration, using 
only the names of the various parts of the garment. This form I have chosen for 
the purpose of making my system intelligible and easily learned by those who 
might not be ac(iuainted with the method of demonstration employed in mathema- 
tical and mechanical Avork. The system is got up on the most scientific method 
of demonstration by reference letters, adopted in another part of this work. 

With respect to the cuts and diagrams of this work they speak for themselves. 
This is, I believe, the first attempt of any inventor or publisher of a System of the 
Art of Cutting to teach and give instructions in cutting and making up, showing 
how every part of a garment ought to be put together in a practical and workman- 
like manner. Then in the words of the gi-eat Philosopher, " Let thy light go 
forth in order that it may shine its radiant shadows, and disclose and impart know- 
ledge to those that are but paitially out of darkness." 

B 



INTRODUCTION. 



It is now over tliirty years since I cut and made the first coat, and twenty-two 
years since I entered the Tailoring business on my own account. The skill of 
tradesmen was not so severely tested then as it is now. However that excellence 
of workmanship has become indispensable to success, it is more imperative than 
ever that he who would impart instruction in any art or science should be possessed 
of a thorough and practical knowledge of what he teaches. 

From my long experience and favourable circumstances in business, I trust 
that I shall be found to possess the qualifications so much requisite to communicate 
a clear and practical knowledge to others. This system of cutting is not an inven- 
tion of the departed, or any one living except myself, and is not got up for a specu- 
lation, but from a desire to do good to my fellow-man. It has been tested for the 
last eight years extensively under my own immediate observation and in my own 
hands, with the greatest success ever known in fitting customers, without trying on 
or refitting, as is usually done. The system is simple and easily learned ; a practical 
Cutter can learn it in less time than he can cut a coat, and put it in operation with 
the gi-eatest ease after he drafts the first coat. 

For accuracy, elegance of design, and rapidity in executing a draft, it has no 
rival in the profession, as it will draft a coat in five minutes and use less cloth, or, 
at all events, as small a quantity as any pattern in existence. Patterns are a thing 
of the past with this system, and will only be used hereafter by inferior cutters and 
old fogies. 

For example : two persons may be exactly the same measurement round the 
breast, &c., yet it often occurs that a coat made for the one will not fit the other. 
This renders the examining of the figure of the individual to be fitted frequently 
of greater use than a carelessly taken measure. In order, therefore, the more 
readily to draw to the subject the observation of those who may partially or alto- 
gether neglect so essential a point, this work is illustrated with a series of engra- 
vings and diagrams, exhibiting the human figure as most ordinarily seen in our every 
day Avalk, together with examples of those irregularities and deformities of shape 
which nature occasionally presents to our view. Correct measurement being of the 
greatest consequence, the altitude of the individual as he walks, rather than as he 
stands, should be the study of the Cutter. Almost every jjerson stands extra 
erect while his measure is taken, so that an individual on such an occasion may 
appear straight who has in reality a considerable stoop. To provide for this I have 
introduced a sy.stem of measuring suitable for the stooping as well as for the erect 
position, which will never fail if attended to. I have tested the system for a long 
time before I ever thought of introducing it to the public, and found it perfect in all its 



VIU. INTRODUCTION. 

■workings, from the lowest to the highest number on the gauge ; and I am confident 
whosoever will test it will never find it otherAvise in any part of its operations. 

In fact I have tried and tested almost everything in the shape of improvements 
or inventions in the art of Cutting since my advent into the Tailoring business, but 
with very little satisfaction. Besides the application of many of these inventions 
were inconvenient and troublesome to the customer as well as to myself I will try 
to describe a few of those systems, as briefly as possible, as I have no doubt but 
the reader is quite as conversant with them as I am. The first, if I recollect, was 
a leather strap measure tied round the body under both scyes, and a tape attached 
in front of scye to go round to all parts of the body. I soon discovered that I was 
but one of the many victims of the leather strap. My next exploit on the human 
figure was with a set of brass harness, called a "Transfer." This I had soon to transfer 
to the back yard, although I gave fifty dollars for the same a few weeks before. I 
have also invested in the paste-board square and its attachment of scale mea.sures, but 
with Avhat success it is only necessary for me to say that it was one of the great hum- 
bugs of the day. I have cut by the graduated scales of most inventors and publishers 
of the period, and I find serious objections in them, as being complicated and not 
founded on the tnie principles or system of measurement to fit the human body in 
all its shapes. I can assure the public with confidence that my .system is original, 
and entirely diff'erent from anything published heretofore by any other inventor. 
It is simple and easily put into practice, and In-ings all the points out necessary to 
cut any kind of a garment, and in a shape to fit the figure for Avhom it is cut. The 
system consists of a twenty- six inch gauge containing all the necessary points to 
cut coats, vests, and pantaloons in any style, fi'om twenty -two to fifty inches breast. 
The one side of the gauge contains all the points to draft coats Avith, the other side 
all the points to draft vests and pantaloons with. This gauge will draft a beautifully 
designed and good balanced coat in five minutes, if in the hands of a practical 
cutter. Vests and pantaloons can be drafted by this gauge in half the time it takes 
to draft a coat, and equally well designed, in any style now or hereafter. In fact 
this is the only system on the art and science of Cutting and Tailoring in general 
that has been published on a new principle, and one that any man can understand 
and put in practice if he is gifted Avith the ordinary intelligence of man. All the 
other systems that I have any knoAvledge of are only repetitions of the old ante- 
diluvian thirds and fourths in one shape or another. To try to describe in this 
work the importance of this unrivalled science on the art of Cutting Avould simply 
be ridiculous, as it can be tested in the hands of any expert cutter in less time 
than it takes to write it doAvn. 

The particulars and utility of this valuable system Avill be more fully described 
with the accompanying diagrams, &c. 



PKELIMINARY. 



In the course of my extensive experience with Cutters I have met many that 
did not even possess the first rudiments of education. This has been, and continues 
to be, a barrier in the way of instruction, and renders it necessary for me to have 
recourse to such a method in this work as will make the system simple and intelli- 
gible to persons of the most ordinary and limited education, and I trust it will not 
be any objection to the more refined and cultivated intellect. 

All systems of cutting arc designated cither by letters of the alphabet or 
by figures. Both of these modes I have found not to be easily understood by many 
Cutters who begin to study a new system. To obviate this difficulty, I intend 
through the whole of this work to use only the names of the various points on the 
gauge, which are only eight in number for the Frock Coat System, and are as 
follows : — 

S. means Shoulder balance at the top of line No. 4. 

back Shaulder Point on line No. 4. 

Bottom of Scye on line No. 7. 

Width of Scye on line No. 6. 

Side body Seam line. No. 8. 

width of Back lines, Nos. 2, 3, and 4, for back scye. 

width of the Top of Back line No. 5. 

Sleeves Head fore points, line No. 5. 

All the above points will be explained hereafter, with the other lines on Diagi-ams 
Nos. 2 and 4. 



s. 


P. „ 


B. 


s. „ 


W. 


s. „ 


. s 


s. „ 




B. „ 


T. 


B. „ 


S. 


H. „ 



For a Sack Coat dispense with line No. 8, F. S. S. for side body seam. Refer 



to Diagi'am No. 2 for Sack Coat. 



MEASUREMENTS. 



I will now proceed with the art of measurement. For a Frock Coat, measure 
without a coat in the following manner : — Take the gauge and put it on the top of 
the right shoulder out as far as you can, on its edge and as near horizontal as 
possible ; then mark a point, with chalk, one inch from the gauge, or according to 
taste, for the outside shoulder point ; from this point lay the gauge across the 
shoulder to the back of the neck, hold it firm and mark a point one inch, or accord- 
ing to taste, in front of the gauge for the inside shoulder point ; now lay the gauge 
on the back, as near horizontal as possible, from shoulder point to shoulder jDoint, 
and mark at centre or back seam for the rise of back shoulder ; then place the 
gauge under the right arm and close up to the bottom of scye, mark a point one 
inch in front of scye, mark another point behind the scye on the side body se^m ; 
from this point lay the gauge across the back, and as near horizontal as possible, 
mark a point on the centre or back seam.- — ^This is all the gauging for the test 
measures. Now I will proceed to measure for a Frock Coat : The point one inch 
in front of scye I make a pivot for test measures, then take the tape measure, \vith 
the end firm on the pivot, and measure up to the front shoulder i^oint No. 1, and 
mark ; then to the back scam at socket bone at No. 2 and mark ; next measure up 
the centre of shoulder and over transverse the back to No. 3 on the back seam and 
mark at No. 3 ; next measiu-c over the outside shoulder point and for shoulder 
point No. 4 ; then to back scye point No. 5 and mark ; then from the socket to the 
pivot and mark. — This is all the test measures. Now I will commence with the 
back : Take the end of the tape measure and place at point No. 2, at the socket 
bone, measure down to shoulder point line and mark ; then to point No. 3 and 
mark ; then to the natural waist and mark ; then for the length of back and mark ; 
then for the whole length of back and mark. Next the sleeve measure : First the 
width of back to point No. 4 and mark ; then to the elbow and mark ; then to the 
wrist or whole length of sleeve and mark ; then measure round the head of arm or 
shoulder for sleeve heads and mark. Next measure the width or size of chest and 
mark ; then the size of waist and mark ; then the width of breast from scye to scye 
and mark one-half the size.— This concludes the measures for the coat. 

Remarks on Co.\t Measuring. — It is of the greatest importance to a Cutter 
to acquire a knowledge of the manner and habits of his customer while walking or 
standing, as it will give him the means of knowing whether he is standing in his 
natural position or not, as there is nothing more essential to know, while his 
measure is taken for a coat. I would recommend Cutters to have their customers 
stand in their natural position, or as near it as possible, and to be careful that the cus- 
tomer does not expand or contract his chest or waist while his measure is being taken 



12 MEASUREMENTS. 

at tliosc points. If the Cutter will give the above remarks his consideration, and 
be careful in measuring — not to measure too tight or too slack — the result -will bo 
that he has a good fit in every garment that he cuts. The Cutter must recollect 
that all Under Coats, whether Frock Coats or Sack Coats, are measured for by 
this system without a coat, and Over Coats over the Under Coats. 

VEST MEASUEES. 

First measure the rise of back shoulder, if you have not a coat measure ; if 
you have, that rise Avill do by reducing it half an inch. Take the tape measure 
and place the end on the back seam at the socket bone, and measure over the 
shoulder to the desired length for collar and mark ; then down the front of breast 
for the whole length and mark ; next round the chest and mark ; then round the 
waist and mark ; then two inches below the waist and mark. — This is all the neces- 
sary measures to cut any kind of vest with. 

PANTALOON MEASUEES. 

First take the gauge and place it in the crutch or as high up the fork as it can 
go, in a horizontal position, bend the gauge as much as possible to the right leg 
and mark with chalk a point. Now take the tape measure and place the end at 
the desired height of rise for the body, measure down to the point made with gauge 
and mark ; then to the knee and mark ; then to the sole of boot and mark ; then 
round the foot for the width of bottom and mark ; then round the knee and mark ; 
then round the head of thigh and mark ; then round the hips and mark ; then 
round the waist and mark. — This is all the measures for a pair of pants. The 
size of legs, &c., must be guided by the Fashion. 

Eemakks, etc. — There ai-c a great many Cutters in the profession that are of 
opinion that Pantaloons arc quite simple and easy to cut. I would say it is easy 
enough to cut Pantaloons but not so easy to fit. To please the customer and his 
friends, as is often the case, the Cutter must bear in mind that there are as great 
a variety of styles and shapes to be fitted in pantaloons as there are in coats ; and 
that pantaloons are equally as much exposed to the gaze of other people as coats 
are. Therefore it is quite necessary that the Cutter should be as competent in 
cuttiug pants as he ought to be in cutting coats, for the one are as much used as 
the other. I would impress upon the mind of the Cutter that he cannot be too 
careful in paying attention to the manner his customer stands while he is taking 
his measure. He ought to stand in his natural position, the heels of his boots 
about three inches apart. In taking the waist measure, a great number of 
customers fire in the habit of expanding or contracting the Avaist while their 
measure is taken. The Cutter ought to explain to the customer the result of 
such procedure, if not discontinued. It must be disadvantageous to both parties 
if a correct measure is not attained, as a misfit undoubtedly must be the result 
in all such cases. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



I trust that it will not be out of place to make a few observations and remarks 
as regards the different styles of garments in general use by the inhabitants of all 
parts of the civilized globe. All of those garments that I am about to particularize, 
have been in use in one shape or another, from time immemorial, and will continue 
to be to the end of time. 

I shall begin my remarks with the Dress and Frock Coats which are essentially 
the same in all parts of the garment except the skirt, which is explained in another 
part of this work. The Dress Frock or Double Breasted Coat is the most elaborate 
piece of workmanship in the whole jirofession, and is highly prized by every skil- 
ful and scientific Cutter and Tailor throughout the universe. Therefore, I would 
inculcate upon every Cutter, Avhatever his abilities may be, to use it to the best 
advantage in designing and cutting. This garment that I am describing, as it ought 
to fit in every sense of the word, and fit close to the body, but not so close as to form 
wrinkles in any part of the garment, at the same time shows the figure of the per- 
son to good advantage. If you shovdd hajipen to meet with such a customer that it 
would be an impossibility to make him a garment of this kind to your advantage 
or his, I would recommend every Cutter to prevail upon such a person to 
have some other garment more suitable to his figure ; as it would be more advan- 
tageous to both parties, or else make up your mind that you have to make the man, 
as the saying is ; therefore, you have to build a coat that will make him appear as a 
man ought to in such a garment, if not, take care that your reputation as a Cutter 
Avould not be lowered in the estimation of the public in sending forth an ill-shaped 
garment. 

The next thing is, how are you going to fit a person that is ill formed ? You must 
cut a coat according to the system with the usual measiu-ements, except part of the 
test measures; dispense with Nos. 4 and 5, over the shoulder point— those two points 
are of no consequence for the low or drooping shoulders — you must build shoulders 
of the kind as shown on diagram No. 40 ; and if one only is low, build the low to 
match the high one, and this is the only method by which you can put an ill formed 
person into good shape, and at the same time retain your rejiutation as a Cutter, 
which is most essential for your prosperity. 

The next garment is a Half-Dress or a Single-Breasted Frock Coat. This gar* 
ment is in its general principles the same as the Double Breasted Frock, only it has 
no lapels sewed on the breast and is Single-Breasted instead of Double. It is a 
c 



14 GENERAL REMARKS. 

much cheaper garment, even if made from the same cloth ; therefore, it is naturally 
more of a general garment than the Double-Breasted, and is worn by every class of 
people Avithout distinction, and made of all grades of material ; but, like the Double 
Breasted Frock, it is not suitable for any ill formed persons unless the same means 
are used in its construction as noted in the foregoing garment. 

The next garment is what is generally termed a Walking Coat. This garment is 
quite a nobby coat, is more worn by the better class of people than the Single 
Breasted Frock, and is usually made from fine material ; and, when well cut and made, 
it looks neat and stylish, particularly on a well formed person, in fact it has been 
and is the most popular garment in use ; but, like all other close fitting garments, it 
is not suitable for a person ill shaped. Every Cutter ought to bear in mind to dissuade 
every person of ill form from getting a close fitting garment. 

The next garment is the Business or Shooting Coat. This garment is made in 
so many shapes, from time to time, and designated under such a variety of names, 
thiit it is almost impossible for a great many in the trade to understand and explain 
to their patrons the style of this garment. 

I have known tailors to make a customer one season a biisiness coat, and next 
season, the same customer selects an English Walking Coat, but when made, to his 
great surprise, it is found to be identically the same as the business coat, except a trifle 
more rounding in the skirt, or a little longer or shorter in the Avaist, as the case may 
be. At all events, the business coat, as I term it, is a very jiopular garment with 
business men, from which it derived its original name. 

The next garment is a Sack Coat. This style of garment is more worn by the 
working class and mechanics, than any other garment, although it is worn by a 
number of the better class of people; therefore, it has become a very popular garment, 
as a general thing, and will continue to be so for an indefinite length of time. This 
garment is made of all kinds of material, and changes its shape from season to season, 
like every other garment in use. This garment ought to be cut with a broader 
shoulder than any other coat in the trade, therefore it is very indispensable that the 
shoulders should be padded, as shown on diagi-am No. 40, This make will give the 
coat a good square shoulder, which ought to be on all coats of this make. 

The next is an explanation on the manner of making Over-Coats of every des- 
cription. They should be cut and made in the same manner as under coats, only 
the skirt ought to be square in every case. The under coats are measured for with- 
out a coat, Avhich gives the exact size of the figure to be fitted, while the over-coat 
is measured for with the under-coat on. This Avill give the exact size of the person to 
be fitted, as in the under coat, the only difterence is that the one is measured 
for without a coat, while the other is measured with a coat on. This method of 
measurement must be quite percejitible, and easily understood by a person of the 
slightest intelligence whatever ; therefore, whether you are measuring for a Double- 
Breasted Frock Over-Coat or a Sack Over-Coat, the system is so uniform in its 



GENERAL REMARKS. 15 

working, that it will draft from the smallest to the largest size, with the same pro- 
portions all through. Size is no obstacle to this system. 

Vests are made in great variety of shapes and styles. The changes in Vests 
are quite as frequent as in any other garment made. There are at all times three, 
four, or more styles in fashion, such as Single Breasted Vest, Single Breasted 
Roll, Double Breasted Roll, and the Double Breasted Lapel Vest. These styles 
are never out of fashion, in one shape or another, the only difference is in their con- 
struction, sometimes they button very high, and sometimes very low, and some- 
times between the two extremes. This is the mode by which the diflferent styles 
become fashionable. 

There is- also a great variety of styles in Pantaloons, which change from one 
shape to another every season. However, there are only four or five styles that 
have been in use for a long period : such as Plain Pants, Medium, Peg-top, Half 
Peg-top, Tight-fitting, Half Tight-fitting, Spring and Half Spring Bottom Pants, 
all of which styles keep coming in and going out year by year ; but in reality there 
are no other styles than those enumerated here. Any others may be designated from 
time to time under assumed names different from those here given, but the theory 
and principle is the same notwithstanding the change of name. Plain pants are worn 
chiefly by the working classes and military ; Tight-fitting, by the genteel and young 
fashionable gents ; Peg-top, when in fashion, are worn by every class of people ; 
and the Spring Bottom pants, wi)ich are principally the tight-fitting with a good 
deal of spring over the boot, are, when in fashion, very generally worn by every 
class of people. No doubt the latter style will some day be as popular as before. 
By referring to the Diagrams in this work, and keeping well posted in the F.ishions 
from season to season, the Cutter will not find any obstacles in his way in the art 
of cutting, by which he would be debarred from cutting a fashionable garment of 
any kind and at all times. But it is almost indispensable that every Cutter should 
have the semi-annual reports of Fashions, if not the monthly. By this means he 
will always be well posted in anything that is brought before the i^ublic in design of 
materials, and may gather many valuable hints in regard to the making up. Such 
information must be of incalculable value to the Cutter of any fashionable tailoring 
estabUshment — if not to establishments of lesser note, it ought to be to the trade 
in general. 



PRELIMINAEY USSTllUCTION IN TAILOEING. 



The art of making clothing is as indispensable to the Cntter as the art of cut- 
ting, as both ought to go hand in hand. If a garment is ever so well cut, it is an 
easy thing to spoil it in the making up, which is very often done by inferior and 
careless Tailors, but I hold that there are a great number of Cutters that are very 
deficient themselves in the art of making up clothing. Therefore, how can any 
Cutter be competent to give instructions to his workmen when he has not the neces- 
sary attainments so requisite in himself? There are a great many Cutters and 
Tailors that differ very much about the manner of making a coat, &c., and will do so 
to the end of time ; however, I would say to all Cutters and Tailors, that so long as 
they will adhere to the foUoAving instructions, they will never fail in making a good 
substantial and neat job : — 

The first thing that a Tailor ought to do,when he receives a job from the Cutter 
or Master Tailor, is to open the job and examine it and see that he has got all the 
trimmings, and, if not, report immediately. Whatever deficiency there may be, this 
will avoid any misunderstanding between the Cutter and the Tailor, a thing that 
ought never to occur, — they should mutually assist each other in their respective 
avocations. 

On finding the trimmings all correct, begin to fit up the job. First cut the 
size of the pockets and stay all around them; put in the pockets neatly and firmly, 
whether with flaps or Avelts, bound or unI)ound, and press the pockets ; then fit the 
canvas in the breast and shrink it, stretching the fore scye of the cloth and canvas as 
shown on diagram No. 42 ; then baste in the canvas and stay the edges, and tack 
the pockets to the canvas ; noAV pad the lapels neatly towards you, and fit up the 
facings and linings of the fore part, back and sleeves ; then sew the facings and the 
linings of the fore part together ; then pad the facings in a neat manner, stretching 
the fore scye to match the outside ; then baste in the facings and linings and make 
up the edges, whether bound or unbound ; then sew the back and fore parts together, 
and press well, baste in the back lining and fell over the side body seams ; then sew 
the shoulder seams and jiress; overcast the canvas and fiicings on the shoulder seams 
and fell over the lining of the back shoulder ; then sew the sleeves and sleeve 
linings and px'ess, overcast with a fine silk thread the side body and back scyes, and 
the gore of the collar; then measure the sleeve heads with scyes and if any too large 
draw the head in with a fine silk thread, and press back the fulness ; " the sleeve 
heads should never be cut too small ;" then put in the sleeves and press the heads, 



PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTION. 17 

fell the sleeve lining over the scyes ; then smooth down the linings in the sleeves 
and fell round the cuft's or bottom of the sleeves — when there is no cuff facings to the 
sleeves they ought to be interlined or stayed from 3 to 4 inches with fine linen or 
good salicia, under the sleeve lining this will keep the cufls a little firmer than the 
rest of the sleeves and will give them a much better appearance ; — then fit the under 
collar Avith canvas, and draw in for the stand at f of an inch less than one-half the 
width, and shrink it into a half circle, shrink the covering to match the under part; 
then fit the collar to the gorge, and if too long, which is often the case, cut off" at 
both ends to the desired length, and begin to sew at the centre of back both ways 
to the ends ; then seam the upper collar to the lapels or facings of the gorge ; then 
turn it over and baste smooth, and fell all around ; then make the button holes and 
press of the coat in a careful manner, in order to retain its former shape, and put on 
the buttons and the coat is finished. 

This description will apply to the making of a Sack Coat as well as a Business 
Coat, only when a Sack Cuat is without a vent behind, the edges cannot be made 
up until the back and fore part are put together, especially when bound. In conclu- 
sion, I would impress upon the memory of every Tailor, that he cannot be over care- 
ful in pressing off a coat, as it is very important that the coat should retain the shape 
that it was put in, when padded, «S:c. I have known a great number of Tailors that 
destroyed the appearance of a coat in pressing off; there is no use in trying to 
shape a coat into good form when building it, if it is pressed out in the finishing. 

The following Diagrams will be more instructive, at the commencement, to any 
Cutter, than all the instructions that could be written in this book, or any other 
book, as all the points and lines are numbered in such a manner, as to show how to 
proceed from the first to the last in all parts of the draft ; and once the Cutter is pro- 
ficient in one draft he will be iiroficient in all the drafts, from the twenty-two to the 
fifty inch draft, which are all the drafts that the gauge will accomplish, being twenty- 
nine in number for Coats, twenty-nine for Pants, and twenty-nine for Vests, thus 
affording a very large amount of valuable information, in comparison to any other work 
brought before the public heretofore. 

When drafting by actual measurement, the coat should be drafted by the test 
measui'es for the length of shoulders, as some shoulders require to be raised and 
others lowered, according to circimistances, in oixler to fit the figure that the coat 
was measured for. The back should be drafted in the same manner by the test 
measures ; first, measure the whole length of back, then from the socket to line No. 
3, for rise of back shoulder seam, and on to line No. 2, and test measure No. 3, or 
depth of scye on centre of back. There is also a test measure to prevent any 
unnecessary surplus of cloth at the top of side body seam. Tliis measure is taken 
from the socket-bone close under the arm, and round to the pivot in front of scye. 
This measure can be dispensed with except in case of an extra erect or a shallow - 
backed person. 



18 DIAGRAJMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 1. 

Now we come to the Diagrams, which will be found, on examination, to be 
entirely different from any former system on the art of drafting, as being more intel- 
ligible, simpler, and easier to learn, yet perfect in all its points, while this system holds 
out the advantage of giving twenty-nine times more instructions in the art of draft- 
ing coats alone than any other system in the world, and the same number in Panta- 
loons, and in Vests, being equal to eighty -seven systems in all. All of those numbers 
or systems are combined into one grand system, one great principle. The man that 
can use one can use all, with the same perfection all through, which I claim to be 
the greatest advancement made in the art and science of tailoring for over a hundred 
yeai's. All that I ask is to throw aside all prejudice, and give the system a fair trial, 
and it will convince the most sceptical that it contains all the merits claimed for it. 

The first diagram, as well as the subsequent diagrams, is of the greatest impor- 
tance to the cuttei', as it is more instructive than all the words that can be put 
in writing in this work, or any other work on tailoring ; in fact it is impossible to 
describe the art of drafting a coat in a simpler manner than what is done in this Avork, 
In the first place, before you begin to draft, smooth down the cloth, whether single 
or double fold, in all cases keep the selvage tOAvards you, and the grain running to 
the left hand, and the web or cloth to the right hand, then commence to chalk off 
the selvage to the required lengtli for the coat. Sup2)0se the coat to be 30 inches 
long, add 1 inch more, Avhich Avill be 31 inches in all irom the bottom of the cloth, 
at 31 inches on the salvage line, No. 1, mark a point, and square across the cloth 
from side to side, call this line No. 2 ; then go back to line No. 1, and mark a point 
on line No. 2, at three inches, more or less, accoi'ding to taste or fashion, fi-om line 
No. 1 ; at this point, and parallel to line No. 1, draw base line No. 3, as shoAvn on 
the diagram, then measure on line No. 1, from line No. 2, 2-4 inches for the sleeves, 
facings, &c., at this point square across from side to side, and cut off the cloth, or 
leave it on until you finish drafting the coat, this Avill be a little over one yard and a 
half cloth, 54 inches wide, and if Avider, Avill take a less quantify ; this will draft a 
coat 40 inches Breast, 35 inches Sleeve, and 30 inches long, and as a natural conse- 
quence smaller sizes Avill take less quantity of cloth in proportion to size, Avhich every 
Cutter fully understands, Avithout enlarging wpon Avhat quantity it takes to cut 
every size of gai-mcnt required. 



Back^ 



Dial 






Iha J 



Dut J 




7)K/ J 



SfiUe lor I)i/ti»"i vHUf* 







^ 




s 



DIAGRAMS. 19 

DIAGaAM No. 2. 

This diagram is the same as diagi-am No. 1, only in a more advanced state of 
perfection, being fully gauged and ready for drafting. 

Suppose that you have diagram No. 1 before you, begin to gauge it in the 
following manner : First place the gauge on line No. 2, scale S, and 40 at base lino 
No. 3, mark at the end of (he gauge on line No. 2 point S., from point S. and at 
right angles to line No. 2 draw line No. 4 ; then place the gauge on line No. 4 at 
line No. 2, scales S.P. and B.S., mark both points, without moving the gauge, at 
40 on each scale ; then mark a point one- third of the distance from point B.S. to 
point S.P., and draw lines Nos. 5, 6, and 7, as shown on the diagram. Then on 
line No. 6, scale W.S., mark point W.S., and then mark a point one-third the dis- 
tance from line No. 7 to line No. 6, — this point is for the top of side body seam. 
This concludes all the points and lines of the fore part of a sack coat. 

I would recommend all new beginners in the art of cutting to draft all the 
points together, before proceeding any further, as it will appear simpler and be 
better understood by the uninitiated in this form. 

Having the fore part drafted, proceed with the back as follows : Draw a line 
from the top of side body seam to the folded ed^'c of the cloth, and at right angles 
to the folded edge ; if there is a centre seam in the back call it line No. 1 in either 
case, and the preceding line No. 2 ; then place the gauge on line No. 1, or folded 
edge, at line No. 2, scale S.H., at 40, mark a point at the brass tips for line No. 3; 
then draw lines Nos. 3 and 4 ; then mark a point at four to five inches up from 
line No. 3 on line No. 1 ; then place the gauge on line No. 1, mark at 40 scale T.B., 
and draw line No. 5 for top of back ; then draw line No. G for back shoulder seam, 
to desired rise of back, which must be guided by the width of shoulder seam ; then 
draw line No. 7, 1 to 1^ inches less than the width of the l)ack. This concludes all 
the points and lines necessary to draft a back with. But before proceeding any 
farther, draft in all the points of tho back. 

Now proceed with the sleeves in the following manner : Go back to the selvage 
line No. 1, make this line No. 1 your base for the front ^eams of the sleeves ; first 
mark the two cuff lines No. 2, then take tape measure at S^ inches, or the width 
of the back as the case may be, and place on the lower cuff line and on line No. 1 ; 
then measure up line No. 1 and mark point for elbow ; then to the head or line 
No. 4, then mark point S.H., scale S.H. at 40 ; draw line No. 3, 1 to 1^ inches from 
line No. 4 ; then draw line No. 5 ; then make line No. 6, mark a i>oint for elbow 
and draw line No. 7, and draft in the points and lines, and the sleeves are finished — 
the lower part being always drafted by the upper, as shown in the annexed diagram. 

Collars are drafted quite simply, and easily learned. First draw a line on any 
piece of cloth that is two to three inches wide and about nine inches long ; cut it 
off and fit in the gorge to the desired size and shape, mark and cut it off ; this part 
will be half of the under collar. Cut the upper by the under collar. This is the 
only true method for cutting a collar by which it will fit a hi^h or low gorge. 

This concludes the draft of all parts of a Sack Coat. For flap and welts refer 
to the diagrams for further information. 



20 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 3. 

This Diagram is for a Frock Coat, and in its general outlines and principle is 
the same as Diagram No. 1, except that it is in four parts instead of three, as in 
Diagram No. 1, the additional part in this Diagram being the skirt. Suppose you 
are going to draft a coat 34 inches long, add 2 inches, which will be in all 36 inches, 
and divide in the following manner : measure 15 inches from the bottom upon line 
No. 1, mark point, and square across the cloth from side to side; then, from the hne 
that you have just drawn, measure 21 inches upon line No. 1, and square across as 
before from side to side, this is hue No. 2; then measure three or more inches from 
line No. 1 for base, and draw at right angles to line No. 2; then place the gauge on 
line No. 2, at 40, Scale S, and mark point S, from point S, at right angles with line 
No. 2, draw line No. 4; then measure from line No. 2, on line 1, 24 inches for the 
sleeves, and draw a line at this point across the cloth from side to side, this concludes 
all the lines for this diagram, which will be easily understood by referring to the 
diagram. 



'S/i'CVt'.S- «^^"" 



l.ine ±. 
Lin^ .3. 



/Jut y. 



El how. 
Liite (f. 



S. 




Brief,- 



Dm J. 



V 



Linr f>. 



Fflvrjmii. ^ 



^ /y/./,?. 



.15! 

I 



^ 



'S'k'irf rf- JiarJ,- S/,-ir-f. 






7)j*f ■?. 



Jjirte -/». 



J)ia 4 




DIAGRAMS. 21 



DIAGRAM No. 4. 

Tliis Diagram is the same as diagram No. 3, only being in a more advanced state 
of perfection, being fully gauged and ready fur drafting. 

Then suppose that you have diagram No. 3 before you, begin to gauge in the fol- 
lowing manner : first, place the gauge on line No. 4, at line No. 2, Scale S.P. and 
B. S., mark both points without moving the gauge at 40, on each scale, then mark a 
point one-third of the distance from point B.S to point S.P., then draw lines Nos. o, 6, 
and 7, draw the latter line three or more inches over line No. 4, then place the gauge 
on line No. 7, at 40, on base line, scale F.S.S., and mark point F.S.S., and draw line 
No. 8 at right angles with line No. 7, then place the gauge on line No. (5, scale W.8., 
mark at 40, point W.S. This concludes all the points and lines of the fore part. 
I would reconmiend all new beginners in the art of cutting to draft ail the 
points together before proceeding any farther, as the draft will be imderstood 
better after all the points are closed. 

Then proceed with the back as follows : Continue line No. 6, on the fore 
part, to the folded edge of the cloth, the same as line No. 9, then draw line No. 
1 and mark a point at two to three inches above line No. 2 ; then draw lines 
Nos. 3 and 4 and mark a point from four to five inches from line No. 3 on line 
No. 1 ; then place the gauge on line No. I, scale T.B., at 40 mark point T.B., 
and draAV line No. ;"> for top of back ; then draw line No. 6 for back shoulder 
seam to the desired rise on line No. 5, as the back must be guided by the 
width of shoulder seam ; then draw line No. 7, and draft in all the points of 
the back and back skirt, and that finishes the back and back skirt. 

The sleeves are drafted in this and succeeding diagrams in the same manner as 
in diagram No. 2, only the sleeves of a body coat should be smaller than those in a 
sack coat. But sleeves at all times .should be governed according to the fashion, 
whether small or large. 

Collars for all coats ought to be drafted as explained in diagram No. 2. 
Although collars differ much in appearance according to the style of coat as well 
as the Fashion yet the theory is at all times the same, and if adhered to, the rule 
laid down in diagram No. 2 will never fail in producing a well-fitting collar in every 
case, whether for a high or low gorge, the effect will always be the same. 



22 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 5 

Represents a very popular and nobby business Sack Coat, and shows two 
kinds of front — the square and the rounded. This coat is worn at all seasons of 
the year, and has been for many years and still is worn, in one shape or another 
according to the style of fashion, by the majority of all classes of people. It is 
made from all kinds of material in cloth, from the ordinary every-day tweed to the 
finest black, blue, or brown broad cloths, and seems to be a permanent institution. 
The diagram shows the manner the coat is drafted in by this system, and the 
different points from which it is drafted ; although not numbered, as in the former 
diagi-ams, still the principle of the system is quite perceptible, and must be easily 
imderstood by any person of the slightest intelligence. The diagram also shows 
the manner the coat is drafted from the cloth, and the quantity of material it takes 
to draft a coat of this kind — being a trifle over a yard and a half, if the cloth is of 
the usual standard of fifty-four inches wide, if wider it will take a less quantity. 
The edges are made up in all styles according to fashion — bound and unbound, 
single and double -stitched edges, and sometimes bluff edge. When made from fine 
material, this coat looks very neat with a velvet collar, whether fashionable or not ; 
although I am not an advocate of anything that is not fashionable, neither do I 
think anyone else ought to be, if he has the slightest apprehension of succeeding in 
business. 



MADe UP. 




'^■.. 



\" 



K 



made: up. 




"'^s. 



DIAGRAMS. 23 



DIAGRAM No. 6 

Represents a Double-breasted Sack Coat, the great American Pea Jacket, or the 
EngHsh Reefing Jacket, that braved the battle and the breeze for a thousand years ; 
or the invincible Skating Jacket of the Canadian Boreas ; this coat differs in its 
general appearance, according to the country that it is made in, at all events it is a 
very comfortable and serviceable garment in cold weather, and at all times for a sea- 
faring man. It is made from pilots, beavers, and all kinds of heavy material ; it 
is made with binding and without binding, according to the quality of cloth and the 
taste of a customer, or the style of fashion. A coat of this kind will take from one 
yard and a half to one and three-quarters cloth, usual width 52 to 54 inches. All 
such coats ought to be lined through the body with Light Tweed, or some other 
heavy material to match ; the sleeves should be lined with fancy flannel or fine 
wincey, strong jean pockets, good heavy canvas padded firmly through the breasts 
and shoulders, and well stayed all round, in order to maintain its original shape so 
long as it is a coat. This is, or ought to be the most durable coat made, as being 
made from the heaviest and stoutest material, and there is no doubt, if made properly, 
that it will give abundance of wear to whoever may require such a garment. 



24 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 7 

Represents the gieat French par excellence de Paris Coat. This was originally 
a French Coat, but since its advent to England and America, it has been designated 
by other names, and changed from its original appearance to suit its adopted coun- 
tries. It is now made in single and double breast, although its original form was 
double-breasted ; at all events it is one of the most nobby coats made for every day 
wear, and at one time was a leading garment, and is still very much worn in an 
altered state, and under some other assumed name from time to time. This Coat is 
usually made from fine material, such as fine Tweed, Diagonals, Silk ISIixtures, Mel- 
tons and Broad Cloths, and when well cut and made looks very stylish. Such a 
coat should be lined in the body with alpaca, lustre, or Italian cloth, sleeves ought 
to be lined with fine muslin of fancy colour, or a good quality of soft salicia, French 
elastic canvas of good quality, padded lightly, but firm, through the breast and 
shoulders ; edges, pockets, and tacks well stayed before put together, the edges 
made up according to fashion, bound or stitched as the case may be. This coat will 
take about the same quantity of cloth as the latter one in cloth of the same width, 
but, if wider, will take less quantity. The shoulders of this coat shoukl be cut broader 
than in the walking coat, and built in the same manner as shown on Diagram, No, 
40 ; if not, the appearance of the coat will be killed, and will look like nothing in 
its general bearing; without being cut, as described here. 



. p^ GRAM isfo _ 

MADe UP. 






\ 



AL 








■> <. 



DIAGRAMS. 25 



DIAGRAM No. 8 

Represents a Business Coat, and is a pcrmament garment for all time to come, 
in some shape or other. This style of coat is generally worn by professional and 
business men during business hours, from whence it derives its name. It is made 
from various kinds of material, but generally from fine cloths ; although in the 
winter season light beavers, cheviots, &c., are used for this coat. It will take a 
tiifle over a yard and a half of cloth of the usual width (fifty-four inches). The 
skirt seam ought to be cut plain, or rather inclined to rounding at the back part of 
the seam, in order that the skirt may hang smooth and plain,, which is very be- 
coming in a garment of this kind. This coat, like all other close-fitting garments, 
ought iiot to be padded too much, except where it is necessary. Trim in the same 
manner as the last diagram, and be sure that the canvas and padding are properly 
fastened to the shoulder seam and fore scye. If this is attended too, the coat Avill 
maintain its original appearance to the last. The diagram .shows the manner the 
coat is drafted from the cloth ; also the rule as applied to the cloth, not in this 
diagram only but in every other in the work. The collar of a coat of this make 
should be a trifle narrower and somewhat curved on the outer edges, so as to lay 
or spread out gracefully on the shoulder. When the gorge is short and the lapel 
narrow, the collar must natiu-ally be shorter and straighter in all such cases. 

Note. — Line No. 2 on the back, .should be a continuation of line No. 6 on the 
fore part, when the side body is drooped down below line No. 9 ; not otherwise. 
But it depends upon the make of the customer, whether he is long or short backed ; 
in either case it can be drafted with case. 

This Coat is made Single and Double-Brested, with and without lapels, and with 
flaps and pockets on the skirt, and sometimes with pockets in the back, but at all 
times according to fashion. 



26 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 9 

Represents a Walking Coat, or what is generally termed a Half Dress Coat. 
This garment is worn by all classes of people as being more convenient and less 
expensive than a Frock Coat. This coat was originally intended by its inventor to 
be made only from fine cloth, which is not adhered to now-a-days to any extent ; 
however, it makes a very nice and dressy garment. When made from fine black, 
blue, brown, or anj^ other plain colored cloth, this coat will take about one yard and 
three-quarters cloth in its usual style, but sometimes less, as it depends altogether 
on the length of the cut. It requires the greatest pains in building a garment of 
this kind — almost as much as a Frock Coat, in fact it is the nobbiest coat of the two. 
The trimmings ought to be of the best quality satin cloth or silk serg<< for lining, 
sleeves should also be lined with fine cambric or silk, French elastic canvas and hair 
cloth through the shoulders and breast, padded between with two ply wadding ; the 
canvas and hair cloth ought to be shrunk before it is padded, this ought to be done 
in every case. This coat ought to be built inside on the same principle as a Frock 
Coat. It changes in style, according to ftishion, like every other garment from time 
to time. In this diagram I shall endeavour to explain the different effects in altering 
the sleeve heads ; according to the system the sleeves will fit a figure of good pro- 
portions, but if he should stand very erect and inclining backwards, and full in the 
chest, then reduce point S.H., and lengthen line N. 5, this will increase the rounding 
of sleeve head and place the inside sleeve seam further back from view. By revers- 
ing the same operation, a stooped or round-shouldered figure can be fitted in the 
same manner. 



MADE UP. 




4 





4' 






Y 



\ 



DIAGRAMS. 27 



DIAGRAM No. 10 

Represents a Single-Breasted Frock Coat, and is in many respects similar to 
the last diagi'am. The lapels are pointed, but not cut off as in the Double-Breasted 
Coat, and the skirt is square or near it, but sometimes transverse and a little rounded 
off ; but at all times it ought to be according to the fashion of the day. This coat is 
only made from broad cloth, black, blue, brown, and plain coloured goods ; it would 
not suit in any fancy material, as it is intended exclusively for a dress, or rather 
Half Dress Coat, and looks well when cut properly, trimmed and made first class. 
It will take one yard and three-quarters cloth to cut such a coat. The trimming to 
be the same as the walking coat. In all dress or close-titting coats the fore scye 
ought to be stretched so as to let the arm come forward without showing any 
wrinkles at the scye or on the fore part, and at the same time it will give greater 
ease to the arm ; while this is being done the side body scye, and back scye ought to 
be surged with silk to prevent them from stretching while the sleeves are put in. All 
the diagrams in this work are based on well proportioned figures, and, as every cut- 
ter is well aware, that a well proportioned garment will not fit every one, therefore 
it is quite indispensable that every cutter ought to know how to apply the rule 
to any figure whether well proportioned or not. For instance, take a figure that is 
about the same size at the waist that he is at the chest, in that case you must extend 
the side body over line No. 8 to the required size, and by so doing you will find that 
the coat will fit as well as it would if cut by the system for a well proportioned figure. 
At the same time, while you are extending the side body seam, you must place back 
the side body centre seam in proportion to what you have extended the other seam. 
The breast system is a never failing rule ; for fitting the chest, whether for a slim or a 
stout figure : neither is the waist if applied as described or laid down here. 



28 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 11 

Represents a Double-breasted Frock Coat — the coat of coats. This coat has been 
from time immemorial the leading garment, and will be to the end of time, in some 
shape or other. It is only made from the best material, or ought to be so, in black, 
blue, or brown, &c.. The trimmings for a coat of this kind should be of the very 
best, such as silk serge or fine Italian cloth, for body and skirt linings ; sleeves 
lined with plain or a small pattern silk of good quality to match the other linings ; 
French elastic canvas and hair cloth, padded with two-ply Avadding through the 
breast and shoulders, shrunk and shaped to match the outside before being put 
together, and then firmly fastened to all the seams in the proper places, in order 
that the coat may maintain its original shape so long as it is a coat. Every cutter 
and tailor ought to endeavour to keep up the reputation of this garment, as being 
the leading coat made by the profession. There is no difference between the frock 
and dress coat, except in the skirt, which will be explained more particularly here- 
after. The frock coat Avill take one yard and three-quarters to two yards of cloth, 
and a dress coat a yard and a half ; cloth the usual Avidth (fifty-four inches), if 
Avidcr, it will take less quantity to make a coat. Tlie fore part, or the breast and 
shoulders, is the most important part of a coat of this kind. At all times, and in 
CA'ery case, the shoulder points are the most important parts of the coat, and if not 
located in their jjroper places Avill be sure to throAV the coat out of balance. To 
obviate this daily occurrence Avith the majority of cutters, this .system is so arranged 
in its construction and test measures, that it is impossible to cut a coat for any 
figure AvhatcA'er that Avill be out of balance. It Avould emphatically be an absurdity to 
entertain such an impression, at all events Avith this system ; based as it is on 
principles of science and common sense. Trying on garments, and cutting paper 
patterns for the figure to be fitted, is a thing of the past Avith this system. 



.INGRAM is,o 



MADE UP. 



\ 





l\ 



\ 




I A 



MADE UP. 





-JS;.; 




V 



ll 




DIAGRAMS. 29 



DIAGRAM No 12 

Represents a Double-breasted Sack Over-Coat, half tight, and a little inclined 
to fit the body. It is a winter over-coat, and is only made from heavy materials, 
such as beavers, pilots, chinchillys, whitncys, &c., &c. Such a coat will take two 
yards and a half of cloth of the usual wiilth (fifty two to fifty-four inches). A coat 
of this kind ought to be lined with light tweed or a good quality fancy flannel. 
Sleeves lined with good quality linen to match the linings ; strong jean pockets, 
which ought to be well stayed in over coats, as they are larger and heavier than 
those in under-coats. They require to be put firmly together in all parts of the 
coat, using good heavy canvas for all over coats made of heavy material. Such 
coats ought to be bound, if the cloth is not of a very good quality ; if it is, then 
stitch the edges single or double, according to fashion. The Sack, whether for 
under or over-coats is the easiest coat made, as there is less shrinking, pressing and 
shaping on i( . The fore scye is the only part that requires stretching — but all coats, 
Avhether small or large, ought to be stretched at this point. The shoulders of an 
over sack-coat should be one inch wider than an under coat for the same figure ; 
therefore the bioad requires to be well padded in order to maintain its shape as 
long as the coat will last. The facings and fore part linings should be put in rather 
tight, and well fastened to the side seam, down to the pocket tacks. This will keep 
the facings from coming forward, and keep the collar from rolling to all parts of 
the coat, as is often the case with garments that arc improperly made. To some 
tailors tliis mode of putting in fecings and linings may seem rather strange at first, 
but once tested, it will be sufiicient to prove the assertions made here to be quite 
correct — not only correct, but the only true principle to build the inside of a coat 
that will keep its form from rolling outwards to all parts of the breast. 



30 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 13 

Eepresents a Single -Breasted Fly-Sack Over-Coat. This Coat is more stylish 
and nobby than the Double-Breasted Sack Over-Coat, and is generally made from 
finer grades of goods ; two to two and a quarter yards of cloth will make a coat of 
this kind for an ordinary sized person. This coat ought to fit closer to the body, and 
spring out over the hips in a graceful manner, but not so much as to form wrinkles. 
The nicest lining for a coat of this kind would be good strong Italian cloth, quilted 
in a neat manner, as it will give the coat a good effect and appearance, especially 
when it is off. In Light Over-Coats of this kind there should not be any wadding 
used in them, when they are for Spring or Fall wear, plain linings and light canvas, 
stitched edges, single or double, with silk facings. A coat made in this manner looks 
very genteel upon a young person, but I would recommend every Cutter to inqjress 
upon their customers to have all their garments made according to the latest fashion ; 
it will be one of the best means to increase your business, as a Fashionable Tailor 
Avill always have trade when the old fogies will have none. One of the most impor- 
tant and essential things for a "merchant tailor to do is to get all garments well made, 
and to accomplish this you must employ the best tailors that you can command. 
Let a coat be ever so well cut, there are ten chances to one that it is killed in the 
making, if it is made by a poor workman ; therefore, it is very important to every 
Merchant Tailor and Cutter to attend and inspect every garment at certain stages of 
its pi-ogress towards completion, and see for yourselves, in order that you may be a 
better judge of Avhat you so highly recommend to your customers ; Avhen I say 
highly, I say so because I never knew a man yet to run down whatever he is trying 
to dispose of, therefore, if you wish to succeed in any undertaking, recommend every- 
thing only in its true light. 



made: UP- ^. 




^i7 



MADE UP. 




/ 



r 



1 




^'%»A*K.v 



^'tiftw, 



V 



N 




DIAGRAMS. 31 



DIAGRAM No. 14 

Represents a Double-Breasted Frock Over-Coat. This coat is a full dress Over- 
Coat ; it is more worn by the better class of customers, as it is a more expensive 
garment than any other kind of coat, if made from fine goods, such as fine dress 
beavers or heavy broad cloth. A coat of this kind should be lined with the best 
quality of Italian cloth, as it is more durable than silk serge in any pver-coat, and 
looks equally as well, when it is of good quality, the body and skirts neatly quilted 
or plain, as the fancy of the customer may dictate ; u.se fine canvas and good padding 
through the breast and shoulders, build the shoulders as shown on Diagram 40, and 
you will have a good square shoulder, which is very essential in such a coat. This 
coat is made with and without binding, bluff and stitched edges, but make according 
to the prevailing fashion would be my advice. This kind of a coat will take fiom 
two and a quarter to two and a half yards of cloth for an ordinary sized man The 
Frock Over-Coat is cut on the same principle as the Under Fj-ock Coat, therefore, 
every Cutter that is interested in the welfare of his profession ought to endeavour to 
sustain the integrity of this magnificent piece of architectural science on the human 
body ; in reality a Frock Coat that is well cut and made, whether under or over, is 
one of the most skilful and magnificent pieces of workmanship that the hands of 
man can execute in tailoring, or anything else, if made perfect. 



32 



DIAGRAMS. 
DIAGRAM No. 15 



Represents a Single Breasted Roll Collar Vest with four bvittons on. Tliis vest is 25 inches long, the collar 
rolls down 15 inches on the breast ; this style of vest is made from all sorts of materials, and will only take 24 
inches of cloth three quarters wide to cut the f(jre pai-t from, and that is for a 40 inch breast, the collar oFthis vest 
can be cut to roll high or low to any desired style or fashion. The back can be drafted from tlie fore parts as 
shown on the diagram, or it can be drafted separately according to circumstances or dictation, but in all cases the 
back shoulder point must be fr(jm one to two inches sliortcr than the fore part shoulder point. The back is cut in 
every case two inches wider that half and breast measure, wliile the fore part is cut exactly to half the breast mea- 
sure ; therefore the fore part is cut one half the measure and two inches more than the half added to the back whicli 
will not be much when made up. This diagram is drafted by the system showing tlie manner that the vest is 
drafted from the cloth using only three points to accomplisli it, namely, S. P. for shoulder point, B. S. for bottom 
of Bcye, and S for shoulder -width. By these three points a vest can be drafted for size or figure, in any shape or 
style. 

DIAGRAM No. 16 

Represents a Low Single Breasted Vest without a collar and only with three buttons on. This vest is 2G inches 
long, 40 inches breast, and ojiens down \ipon tlie breast to 19 inches. TIic fore parts u{ the vest will take 23 inches 
of cloth, tliree (juarlers wide, and can be made to button uj) close to tlie neck or button down to one button if de- 
sired. This vest can be made with a small collar, when buttoned close up : in this style it is called the Prussian 
Collar Vest, or a Military Vest. This vest is made from all kinds of material, and in the summer season it is very 
much in use on account of its lightness and being made from light material such as linens, Marseilles, &c. The 
draft shows the manner thnt the vest is drafted by tlie system, as in the preceding diagram, the same rule applies 
to all the vests drafted by this system. Simple it may appear at first, but, after it is tested, it will be found to con- 
tain all the merit that is claimed for it. 

DIAGRAM No. 17 

Represents a Double Breasted Lapel Vest with four buttons on a side, and opens down to 17 inches on the breast. 
This vest is 26 inches long, 40 inches breast, and will take from 27 to 20 inches cloth tliree quarters of a yard 
wide. The lapels can be left on or cut ofl', according to taste — the vest will look well in either case. This style of 
a vest is more suitable for the winter season, and is very comfortable in cold weather when made to button high 
up, although it is made from light material in the summer season, and button down to two buttons on a side. In 
draftin" this vest commence to draft in the same manner as in tlie single breast, then adding the lapels to the breast 
to the desired size or fashion, whicli will be found to be quite correct and easily understood by any person pos- 
sessed with the ordinary abilities of the individuals, liefer to the draft for further instructions, which will be 
better undei'stood at first by most persons not much accustomed to drafting, but are continually using patterns 
to produce drafts. 

DIAGRAM No. 18 

Represents a Double Breasted Roll Collar Vest with three buttons on a side and opens down to 19 inches on the 
breast. This vest is 20 inches long. 40 inches breast, and will take 20 inches of cloth three quarters of a yard wide 
to draft a vest of this kind from. This style of vest is more suited for the sammer season or a dress vest, as ii 
will expose the bosom of a nice and well dressed shirt, wliich is so very essential to the appearance and completion 
of a full dress suit. The vests are made sometimes tr) button high up, and, in fact, in all shapes, althougli its 
originator never intended the vest for any tiling but for a full dress. Commence to dr.aft in the same manner as 
the siii'de breasted vest, and adding the difference as in the double breasted lapel vest, in this manner a correct 
draft can be produced every time with the greatest of ease and satisfaction to all persons concerned. Refer to tlio 
draft for further instructions which will be found to bo very instructive ami easily understood, which is better than 
all the written instructitms that could be written until Doom's-day in this work or any other work. Therefore study 
the drafts and folhjw the fashion and the word fail you shall never know. 

DIAGRAM No. 19 

Represents a Single Breasted Roll Collar Vest. This vest buttons high up, rather close to the neck, and may be 
termed a winter vest ; it is 25 inches long, 39 inches breast, and will only take 23 inches of cloth three quarters of a 
yard wide, to draft this style from. 

All the foregoing diagrams show the principle and manner in which all the different styles of vests are pro- 
duced by the system. The system will draft all parts of the vest separately if required. In drafting a vest, what- 
ever the breast measure may be, give the fore part lialf tliat measure, and, to the back part, add two inches more 
for seams Ac, which will not be much wlien made up. For instance, suppose you are going to draft a vest for a 
person 40>nclies breast 25 inches long, commence by forming a square 22 inclies long, 10 inches wide, then begin to 
caui'e this scpiare in the following manner : the side seam and scye ne,\t to you, then take the gauge and mark points 
S P. and R. S. for shoulder points, and bottom of scye, then the width to shoulder seam and the length of collar 
roll then draft in all the points of the fore part ; then commence the back in the same manner as the fore part, by 
formin" a square, adding two inches more to the width, and the difference for the rise of the back shoulder which 
will be from 2 to 3 inches as the case may be, then . easure the length of the fore part side seam and fore scye, then 
apply the same measure to the square just made, measuring from the bottom to the bottom of scye, and on to li to 
2 inches less than the shoulder points of the fore part, mark these two points and square across from side to side 
and measure the width of the block and draw a line from tlie shoulder points to the bottom of scye line, then draft 
in all the points as shown on the diagrams. The collar will be fitted to the gorge in the same manner as in tlio 
coats and shape to style or fasliion according to taste. Vests drafted by this system will never fail in producing 
a good fit if adhered to, the rule laid down in this work will be a never failing one 






V 



-y 



^P^GRAIVF isfo ,^ 



M/VDIB UP. 






'■***»r. 




\ 



K 




N 



V 



DIAGRAMS. 33 



DIAGRAMS Nos. 20 & 21 

Represent an ordinary pair of Plain Pantaloons, drafted in two parts, as shown 
on Diagram No. '20. This diagram shows the fore and back parts, drafted sepa- 
rately by the system. Diagram No. 21, shows the manner of drafting both parts 
together. Both of these diagrams are the same, and show that pantaloons can be 
drafted by this system, separately or together, as your mind may dictate. Thei:e are 
the plainest pants made, and are only worn by ehlerly gentlemen, as a rule. This 
diagram is drafted from three points, and a balance hne on the fore part ; first, the 
rise of body, then the width of waist, the balance line, and the width fork, drafted 
into style, then place the fore jjart on the balance of the cloth that you have just cut 
the fore parts from, and draft, as shown on diagram No. 21, which will be about two 
inches wider than the fore parts in the legs ; at the fork and waist, take the sizes from 
the gauges. 



34 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAMS Nos. 22 & 23 

Represent Tight-fitting Pantaloons, drafted in separate parts, shoAving the manner 
that it is done ; in diagram No. 23 are the same Pants, drafted together, shoAving the 
manner that they are drafted in both ways. This style of Pants is cut from one 
to two inches larger than the leg of the customer, and sometimes a little sprung at the 
bottom, and they are designated as tight- fitting Pants. The fore parts and back are 
drafted as in the former diagram, only the difference in style, add to the size of fork 
in the back parts half an inch, and two inches at the waist, Avhich will not be too 
much when made up ; when the fore parts are placed on the back parts, first shajie 
the outside scam of the back ])arts to the desired style, then draw all the cross lines 
and the back body seam line, then measure the width at all the i)oints, commencing 
at the Avaist, the hip, the fork, the thighs, the knee, and the bottom, then di-aft in all 
the points, and cut. 



-b. 




\r 



V 



DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAMS Nos. 2i & 25 

lieprcsent a pair of Peg-top Pantaloom, shoeing the manner tliat they can bo 
dX in two stvles ; dFagrLn Ko. 24 .hows the pants in two separate drafts, for 
pin Ld baeU ; diag,.an. No^ .3 shows the same pants drafte togotl,.. ,n t1.e nsna 
manner. Peg-top Pants are the la,-gest made, and are nsnally from '4 to 28 ne^es 
a knee and at the bottom nsnal si.e 17 to 18 inehes. This style of Pants onght to 
fi round the body as close as a medium size pair of Pants, although I have se n 
some cutter,, cut them big enough to go twice round the body, but f'^^"^^^ 
them This diagram is drafted in the same manner as the latter diagram, only the 
difference in style, as shown by the diagram, dispenses ,vith the hip measure ; but m 
all eases refer to the diagrams if you are not profleient in the art or profession. 



'^^ BIAGHAMS. 



DIAGRAMS Nos. 26 & 27 

Represent what I call the antediluvian style of drafting- Pants for a corpulent person 
This diagram shows the fore part and back, drafted separately, in a manner that any 
one, having the least idea of cutting, cannot fail to perceive the difference between 
the corpulent and iucorpulent, although I have met with a great many cutters that 
did not know how to begin to cut pants of this kind. Diagram No. 27 shows the 
same})ants, drafted together in the usual manner of drafting pants; but I have 
atlopted in this work two methods of drafting pants, namely, separately and together 
which will not fail to be beneficial to the new beginner, in showing both parts sepa- 
rately, giving a better idea of the manner that all the lines, points, and curves are 
produced, in which it cannot be so distinctly observed, when drafted together. 



DIAGRAMS. 37 



DIAGRAM No. 28 

Repiesents the modern style of drafting corpulent Pantaloons. This diagram only 
shows the pants drafted together, in the manner that I have been in the habit of 
cutting such pants for a number of years with the greatest success, and are much 
neater-fitting pants in every respect than those cut by the old style. This style of 
drafting is entirely foreign to the profession, and is only known to myself, therefore 
i*.: will be one of the most important things in this work for any cutter to know this 
method of drafting pants of this description It does away with the surplus cloth 
usually found in pants of this kind when sitting. A corpulent person can be fitted 
by this method of drafting as easily as an ordinary person. 



3h DIAGRAlsrS. 



DIAGKAMS Nos. 29 & 30 



Represent a pair of Pants drafted in separate parts, showing the manner, and how 
and where to shrink them before putting them together. All pants ought to be shrunk, 
more or less, over the instep of the foot, and below the hip, as shown on the diagram ; 
this must be done before the pants are put together, as it is impossible to accomp ish 
it afterwards. Diagram No. 30 represents a side view of the same pants after they 
are made ; they are of a medium size, and slightly sprung at the bottom, showing 
the manner that such pants ought to appear in when made, but must be shaped 
before put together, as it cannot be done afterwards; no matter how much they may 
be pressed into form, they will not retain it for one day, if not done at the proper time. 




•la/ 7 mv Shoidder 




\r 



DIAGRAMS. 39 



DIAGRAM No. 3l 

llepresents a narrow Shoulder and Back, showing the manner of reducing the 
Shoulder and Back. The Shoulder and Back can be increased in the same manner 
as it is reduced, by referring to the diagram. This method will be easily understood, 
and found to be a correct principle. 



DIAGRAM No. 32 

Represents the corpulent form of drafting the fore part and back, showing the 
amount of cloth brought forward of the base line, instead of the ordinary manner 
of drafting for a proportionable figure. The corpulent person Avill require a much 
narrower back, in proportion to the size, and the shoulder thrown further back, and 
much longer in ihe gorge As a natural neces.sity, in order to fit the chest, refer to 
the diagram for the manner of executing a draft of this kind. 



40 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 33 



Eepresents the High and Low Shouldered form. In this figure it is necessary to 
measure both shoulders, in order to find the difference of size between them. The 
manner of cutting and building a garment for a figure of this kind is explained in 
another part of this work more particularly. 



DIAGRAM No. 34 

Eepresents the Hunch-Back form. This is the most difficult garment in the whole 
profession to fit, which Avill be found, upon measuring and drafting, to correspond 
with this diagram ; almost in every case of a hunch-back the shoulders are rather 
narrow, as a natural consequence. Refer to the diagram, which will show the man- 
ner that a draft for such figures will appear though it may seem rather strange to 
some Cutters, still it is quite correct. 




Munch ^ach 



"7 





JJlU jo 









F 



DIAGRAMS. 41 



DIAGRAM No. 35 

Represents the skirt of a Business or Shooting Coat, showing two styles of frout and the manner of 
lowering the waist seams at the back part of the seam. When a .skirt is cut in this manner the 
side body requires to be lengthened in proportion to the lovvness of the skirt. This style has a 
veiy good effect in a coat of this kind when produced in a proper manner : otherwise better leave 
it alone. 

DIAGRAM No. 36 

Represents the skirt of a Morning Coat showing the transverse and the rounding frout as made in 
this kind of a coat. There are many Cutters who cannot draft a .skirt separately, but this work 
will obviate that for the future. 

DIAGRAM No. 37 

Represents the skirt of a Double-Breasted Frock Coat. My object in giving skirt drafts separately 
is to show the manner of drafting skirts alone, as every Cutter, at one time or another, has occasion 
to cut a skirt for a coat that has lost its former skirts accidentally, or otherwise. I have met many 
a Cutter that did not know how to commence to draft a skirt separately, and to obviate this neces- 
sity I have given the skirt diagrams drafted in the usual manner by the system. 

DIAGRAMS No. 38 AND 39 

• 

Represent the Collar unmade and made. Diagram No. 38 shows the under part of the collar 
ready to be .shrunk into a half circle. The upper collar will require to be shrunk and fitted to the 
under collar, as shown on Diagram 39 before it is put on the coat. Sometimes collars are cut the 
outside straight, and at other times curved, but the proper time to shape the collar is after it is 
shaped into form. A collar may be ever so well shaped before it is made, its original shape is lost 
in the shrinking and curving it to the desired style, therefore the proper time must be after it is 
formed into shape. 



42 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 40 

Represents the fore part and back matched together, showing the manner of build- 
ing the shoukler back scye and top of side body seam of the back for a low 
shouldered figure or any deficient shoulder ; if padded and built in this manner it 
will enable any Cutter to make a perfect fit for the most drooping shoulder or 
shoulders that can be produced. This is one of the great sciences where the tailor 
makes the man — or rather the appearance of a well made man. I have no know- 
ledge whatever of any inventor or teacher hei-etofore giving such valuable informa- 
tion to the profession as is given in this diagrc-,m alone. 




^" 



DIAGRAMS. 43 



DIAGRAM No. 41 

Represents the fore part and back matched together, and shows the manner in 
which the gauge is appUed to ths body to find the proper points ; the first gauge on 
the back gives the exact rise of the back from the shoulder points to the socket 
bone of the neck. The second gauge gives the exact depth nf scye and the proper 
length of shoulder and all its points, and the third gauge on the back gives the rise 
of back in line with bottom of scye and the test measure No. 3 from the point one 
inch in front of scye. The style of gauging the body, and the measures taken from 
these points as shown on the diagram will at all times ensure a perfect fit. 



44 DIAGRAMS. 



DIAGRAM No. 42 

Kepresents the fore part and back, showing the manner of applying the tape 
measure to the body, after it is gauged, as shown on the diagram . First place from 
the end of the tape, measure on the pivot one inch in front of the scye, then proceed 
up to the fore shoulder point, and mark ; then on to the socket bone, at the back of 
the neck, and mark ; then over the middle of the shoulder, and transverse on the 
back to point No. 3, in line with bottom of scye, and m.ark ; then to the shoulder 
point, at the top of back scye, and mark, and on to point No 5, on side body seam, 
and mai'k. This concludes all the test measui'es, and if properly attended to, will 
never fail in producing a perfect fit in every instance, v/hether your subject is stooped, 
erect, high or low shouldered. Hunch back, or any other back, the result will 
always be the same, a never-failing one. 



Tailoring is the most aucient and honourable prolcssion in existence. The oldest 
man of whom we have any record must have been something of a tailor him- 
self, as tradition distinctly says that he sewed leaves together and made himself an 
ajDrou, &c. 

This old gentleman tailor was no less than Mr. Adam, the fother of all creation. 
Therefore it behooves every tailor, in whatever clime his lot may be cast, to look up- 
on his profession with admiration at its industry, intelligence and integrity, and 
honourable, because the tailor never lives by fraud, deception, etc., as practised by 
members of the more refined and educated professions. The tailor's whole ambition 
is to do his fellow-man all the good that lies within his power, and to clothe the 
nakedness of the human family, while he himself lives by the sweat of his brow and 
his own industry. In whatever sphere he may move, his Avork and his business are of 
more importance and indi.spensable to mankind than that of any other profession. 
Tailoring, like every other branch of business, is divided into several branches, such 
as the master tailor, the cutter or foreman tailor, and the sewing, tailor. The first, 
or merchant tailor, is a man equal in all respects to any leading man in any other 
profession. lie may not be in all cases as highly educated as a first-class lawyer, or 
a doctor, but his business does not demand it ; speech-making is no part of his 
business, neither are latin phrases in labeling parcels. A good sound English educa- 
tion, good judgment, punctuality, and morality, these are the requisites so essential 
to success, and so long as he practises them he may bid defiance to his compeers. 
Now the cutter, or foreman tailoi-, is a man of refined intellect, and of good judg- 
ment, as his profession demands it. Without this ability he cannot be a cutter, 
otherwise he would be a failure ; in fact a good cutter will always be found to be a 
gentleman in every sense of the word. His intercourse with men of society will 
necessitate him to be a man of position and ability, Avhich entitle him to a salary 
ranging from one thousand to five thousand dollars per annum, which is a larger 
amount of income than is received by any other second class professional in the 
world. The word second-class is only applicable to the salary, not to the abihties 
of the man, in fiict a cutter must be something of an artist as Avell as a designer to 
be anything like proficient in the art of cutting. 

Tlien compare the third-class, or sewing tailor with any other class of mechan- 
ics, and you will find that the tailor earns or makes higher wages than any other 
class of mechanics. This speaks well for the tailor, and shows that, if he is but true 
to himself, and studies sobriety, and cultivates his intellect, he may aspire to the 
highest honours that his country can confer upon him. At all events the tailoring 
business will maintain its indepeuileuce and superiority over all other professions to 
the end of time. In whatever sphere a man may be, from the highest to the lowest. 



46 INSTRUCTIONS IN TAILORING. 

if from nothing else, necessity compels him to patronize and to humble himself to 
the tailor's inch tape— humble did I say, it ought to honour. It is often that the 
tailor has to make the man, or rather give him the appearance of a man, by hiding 
his defects by the art and skill of his profession only known to himself. Tailoring 
is a profession by no means that there is anything of a low menial work to be done 
in, but on the contrary, the work is light and clean from the beginning to the end ; 
in fact there is no trade or profession that man has to perform but has more or less 
of filthier work than the tailor has to do. The tailor can keep himself as clean and 
respectable as any gentleman while he is at his work, and that is saying a great deal 
more than any of the so-called refined professions can say. Consider the doings of 
an M.D. from the beginning to the end, and you will find that he has to perform 
work both disgusting and menial, unknown but to himself and his victims. A 
tailor would not condescend to do sucli work; it is below his independence and 
condescension, and he would reckon it irredeemable to his charactei-. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN TAILOEING. 

Now, I will endeavour to give as perfect a method of building a Double-Breasted 
Frock Coat as possible, and, if adhered to, will never fail in producing a garment of 
a gi-aceful appearance which will retain its perfections as long as it is a coat. First 
examine the job and ascertain if it is correctly ti-immed, and, if not, report imme- 
diately to the cutter. Begin by sewing all the fishes and press, at the same time 
stretch the side body seam if shorter than the fore part ; then take the two fore 
parts and baste slightly together; then shrink back the fulness to the centre of the 
breast and stretch the fore scye as shown on diagram No. 42 ; having the fulness 
pressed to centre in this manner, the lapels or front Avill roll to any desired part of 
breast high or low ; then baste and seam on the lapels and side body and press well ; 
then cut the canvas two inches back of the front scye and two-thirds the width of 
the bottom of the fore part, cut fishes out of the canvas to match the cuts of the 
fore part, sew up the cuts of the canvas, damp and press to match the fore parts; 
then fit the canvas to the fore part and pad the breast and lapels thick and neat ; 
then cut the hair cloth two inches back of the brake of the lapels at the gorge and 
down the front to 3 or 4 inches from the bottom or waist seam, and up transverse the 
breast to the middle of the fore scye, the hair cloth should be shrunk, bound with 
silesia and padded firmly to the canvas with two ply of wadding between them, 
this will give a full rounding appearance to the fore part ; then sew the skirts to the 
fore parts with fulness, or Avithout, according to the fashion, press the waist seams 



INSTRIXTIONS IN VEST MAKINli. 47 

well and press l)ack the fuhiess to over the hips ; then cut the facing and side body 
hniugs, cut out ti.shes to match the foi'c part, scav up and pad into form hghtly and 
neatly, shrink the facing to match the fore part and stretch the fore scye and baste 
them in commencing at the centre of the breast from side to side, and not up and down 
as is usually done ; be sure that the feeing and side body lining ax'e as long as the fore 
imrt, then put in the skirt pockets, stay them well to plait and up the waist seam, the 
front and bottom; then finish the lapels and press smootli the fore part and skirt and 
put in the button holes, as it is much easier at this stage of advancement than it 
would be when all the parts are put together ; then seam the right and left backs to 
the side bodies, keeping the tops of the side bodies a little easy on the back, seam 
down the back skirts and the centre seam of the back, now press well and be careful 
not to stretch the side body, seam stays across the back from tack to tack and put 
in the back tack and the back skirt linings, fell over the side body seams; then seam 
the sleeve and sleeve linings and press ; measure the sleeves heads to the scye and 
draw in the fulness and press back ; then sew in the sleeves and press well and care- 
fully, and if the heads are full put in a small pad, which will raise the heads and give 
the shoulder a square and gi-aceful ajipearance ; fell the sleeve linings over the scye 
and smooth down to the cuffs and fell all round : then canvas the coUai', draAv in for 
the stand and press into shape and fit it to the gorge and pare off in good shape ; 
now shrink the upper collar to match the under one, then put on the collar by com- 
mencing at the centre of the collar on the back seam and sew on both ways and cover 
with the upper collar ; then press ofi carefully Avithout altering the shape the coat 
was built in ; then put on the buttons and the coat is finished in a shape that will fit 
the customer if it was cut to the size. A coat made as described here will be made 
well, and will never get out of shape. The breast pocket is omitted in this descrip- 
tion : l)reast pockets are put in the facing in the same manner as the outside pockets 
in sack coats, only they arc getted instead of welts. 



INSTKUCTIONS IN VEST MAKING. 

tirst examine the a est and trimmings and ascertain if it is correctly trinnned, if 
not, report immediately to the cutter. Then begin by cutting the pockets to the de- 
sired size, stay all round the cuts and put in the pockets, stay the welts and tack 
the pockets neatly whether bound or unbound ; then put in the canvas the whole 
width of the shoulders and tranverse down the breast to the bottom four inches wide ; 
then put on the under collar and fit up the facings and fore part linings and press ; 
then seam, fell or bind the edges, and fell fore scye, overcast the shoulders and side 



48 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKINc! PANTALOONS. 

seams, and put in the back seam, tlio side seam, bottom ami shoulder seams ; thou 
turn out the fore parts and fell the back of the collar, put in the button holes and 
and press off and put on the buttons, and the vest is finished. Some vests are wad- 
ded and some are not, and if wadded tack it well to the canvas. Washing vests 
should never be canvased, but stay the buttons and button holes ; seam the 
collar in with the shoulder seams and fit a piece of cloth the same as the fort part to 
the back, shape it so as to fit the back of the neck : this will be much neater than 
having the collar to go all round. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR INIAKING PANTALOONS. 

First examine the job, and ascertain if all the dittbrent .parts of the pants and 
trimmings are correct, and, if not, report immediately to the cutter, then match the 
fore part and back, and see if they will go together, as they ought to, and, if not, get 
them rectified before proceeding any further, then shrink the fore parts according to 
the fashion. All pants ought to be shrunk, more or less, in the fore part, over the 
boot ; if spring bottom, it Avill require all that the cloth will give. In tight-fitting 
pants, it is necessary to shrink the back part, below the hip, and over the thigh ; this 
will do away with a certain amount of the surplus cloth not wanted in this part of 
the pants, then begin by putting in the pockets, and stay- them well ; fit up the flys 
with double staying, and put in the button-holes, and put on the buttons ; press the 
pockets and fly, then baste the leg scams, and seam them up ; press the seams, and 
tack the pockets strong and neat, then sew on the waist bands : stay with double 
linen, and put on the buttons and Avaist band linings ; fell or bind, as the case may 
be, then seam up the back and crutch seams, and tack the bottom of the fly, and 
turn in the bottoms to the desired length, then press off carefully, so as not to take out 
the spring in the fore part. If the pants are not shaped properly before being put 
together, it can not be done afterwards, or in the pressing off. It is erroneous 
to think that pants can be shaped into any desired form after they are made ; some- 
times pants have canvas in the bottoms, and sometimes they have not. Pants that 
are lined can never be as well shaped as pants that have no lining in them. 



HOW TO TRIM ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS. 

A great number of cutters are not in the habit of trimming their work, but blocks 
off every part of the trimmings, as it is generally termed by the trade ; this leaves 



BOW TO TRIM ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS. 49 

a gfcat margin to the tailors to cabbage, as the saying is. By these means the 
employer is defrauded out of an enormous amount of material from one end of the 
year to the other ; in fact, I have known tailors often to remark that they did not 
niuch care to work for a shop Avhere the cutter was in the habit of fitting up the jobs. 
I would recommend every merchant tailor or employer to pay their work hands the 
highest figure for their work,, and get it well done, and let the cutter trim evoiy job 
that he cuts, and trim it cai-efuUy, and I shall not hesitate to say that the employers 
will be the gainers at the end of time, if they adhere to this mannei-. In some shops 
it may be impossible for the cutter to accomplish all this work, but in all such cases 
I would say to the employer that it is much better to employ more help in their 
cuttmg departments than to neglect so essential a part as the trimming of the job. 
It would not be judicious to the employer to over-crowd the cutter with work ; in 
all such cases the cutter is more liable to mistakes than he would be otherwise. 
The success of eveiy tailoring establishment greatly depends upon the merits of the 
cutter ; a good fitter and fashionable cutter will at all times and in every place 
command a large share of patronage, and no doubt is the main-stay of any tailoring 
establishment. Now I will endeavour to give as correct a manner as possible to 
trim all kinds of garments ; in the first place I will begin with the coat : after all 
l)arts of the coat are cut, fit up the facings, then cut the length of canvas required, 
which will be the length of the fore part in the body coat, or down to the side 
pockets in a sack coat^ one quarter of a yard linen stay, more or less, according to 
the size or quality of the garment ; then cut the pockets to the desired size, and the 
number wanted in the garment ; then cut the lining, first the back and side body, 
then the skirts and back skirts, and the fore paits, if the cloth or fiicings do not 
extend to the side body centre scam; then the padding and hair cloth, if any, and one 
and a half to two yards wadding ; buttons according to the number required, or 
fashion ; one thread of twist for each button hole, one yard and an eighth long, and four 
to six skeins of sewing silk ; if made by hand, or if made by machine, one to two skeins 
will be quite sufficient. Linen thread is only used to put on the buttons, unless the 
garment is made from coarse material, then use more linen thread and less sewing 
silk ; if the coat is bound an ordinary size, will take from four and a half to six yards 
binding. A coat that is bound all round will take, as a natural consequence, more 
than a coat that is only bound round the first points of the skirt ; this comprises all 
the trimmings necessary to build an under coat of any kind, unless a silk velvet 
collar or silk facings, which is seldom in use by the better class of tailors. 

The Over Coat is trimmed in the same manner as the under coat, except when 
interlined, which will take the same quantity of material as the outside lining ; the 
interlining should be the lightest cambric obtainable, in order to prevent the lining 
from being stiff ; the more pliable the lining is, the better, as stiff linings always pro- 
duce wrinkles, and jjrevent the coat from hanging in a graceful and easy manner. 



50 now TO TRIM ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS. 

A vest should be trimmed in the following manner : — MeasiU'e the length of the 
fore part, and cut the same length of French canvas, or elastic stiffening, and split 
it in two, and use only the half for each vest, unless it is a silk or silk velvet vest, 
then cam-as the whole fore part ; put in from two to three inches of stay linen, half 
a yard of M-adding, or more if required ; the pockets will be obtained from the pieces 
left from the back ; the number of buttons required depends altogether on the 
fashion or the taste of the customei', but at all times put only one thread of twist 
ior each Ijutton, three-quarters of a yard long ; two skeins of sewing silk, and one 
hank of linen thread ; if made by a sewing machine, half a skein of sewing silk is 
quite sufficient, and linen thread enough to put the buttons on : if the vest is bound 
it wnll take from two and a half to three yards of binding for an ordinary size. This 
concludes all the trimmings for a vest, except the inside linings, wiiich Mill take 
from seven-eighths to one yard of fine cambric or soft silesia. 

Pantaloons ought to be trimmed in the following manner : I would recommend 
all pants to be lined to three or more inches below the crutch or fork, by this means 
the body of the pants will be well stayed, and will prevent the seat from wearing 
out until the other parts are done, A\hich Avould not be the case if not lined as des- 
cribed here ; but in no case woidd 1 reconnnend the pants to be lined all through if 
a well-shaped leg and bottom is to be obtained, as it cannot be done so nice with 
linings as without. Having the linings fitted, then cut the pockets to the desired 
size, which ought to be from eight to ten inches long and from six to seven inches 
wide, Avith a hip pocket two inches less both Avays, watch pocket three by five inches. 
Some pants have only one cash pocket, and some have none. Then put in tAvo 
inches of good canvas for the waist, three inches of stay linen and two inches of 
silesian for fly lining, and two inches of some fancy material for waist-band lining, 
if bound put in two yards of binding, and if canvased in the bottom put in from 
four to six inches all round or half round as desired, and seven brace of buttons, five 
fly buttons and one buckle, five threads of tAvist seven-eighths of a yard long, three 
skeins of seAving silk, and six hanks of linen thread ; but if made by a sewing 
machine, one skein of scAving silk and one hank of thread Avill be quite sufficient. 
An extra large size or corpulent pants Avill take one-third more trimmings than Avhat 
is described here. 

I Avould recommend all cutters and trimmers to have as much of the trimmings 
ready cut as possible, at all times, for coats, vests, and pants ; by so doing, time Avill 
be much shortened in trimming any garment. By adhering to the foUoAving rules, 
namely : for the coat, keep ahvays cut the canvas stayings, pockets, Avadding, and 
paddings ; for the Vests, canvas stayings, Avaddings, &c. The trimmings for the 
Pants can always be ready cut, as they are generally comprised of tAvo colours; light 
and dark. By adhering to this method of trimming, it Avill greatly facilitate the 
Cutters or trimmers in getting o»'er a much larger amount of Avork than could be 
done otherAvisc. In this manner pants can l»c trimmed in less time than five minutes. 



GRADUATED TABLES 



The following tables will he found to contain much valuable information, which will be of 
the greatest imiiortance to Cutters in general, es|)eciall3' in the Ready-made Trade. These tables 
give the ordinary or average length of every size and style in Coats and Coat Sleeves, Vests, and 
Pantaloons, con-esponding with the breast measure for coats and vests, and waist measure of 
imntoloons on the gauge. These tables are compiled from long experience and careful attention 
to the measurement of custoinei's of every size and shape. 





SACK COATS. 




BRZ-UtT. 


Lfsotu. 




Sluvu. 


22 inches 


.. 10 inches long, 


.. 18 inches long 


23 „ 


.. 17A 


«» 


.. 19 


24 ., 


.. is' 


J' 


.. 20 


25 .. 


.. 19i 




.. 21 


20 „ 


.. 20 


>t 


22 


27 „ 


.. 21i 


,. 


.. 23 


28 „ 


22 




.. 24 


29 .. 


.. 23i 




.. 25 


30 ., 


.. 24 


V 


.. 20 


31 „ 


.. 25i 


?• 


.. 27 


32 ,. 


.. 20* 


., 


.. 28 


33 „ 


.. 27i 


J» 


.. 29 


34 „ 


.. 28 


J» 


.. 30 


35 „ 


.. 29i 


.. 


.. 31 


30 „ 


.. 30 


»* 


.. 32 


37 „ 


.. 30A 




.. 33 


38 „ 


.. 3l" 




..34 


39 „ 


.. 3U 


, , 


.. 34A 


40 „ 


.. 32 


„ 


.. 35 


41 .. 


.. 32i 


»» 


.. 35i 


42 .. 


.. 33i 




.. 36J 


43 „ 


.. 33?. 


,, 


.. 30 


44 „ 


... 331 


>J 


.. 3GJ 


45 „ 


... 34 


»» 


.. 36.1 


40 ,. 


... 34 


*y 


.. 30i' 


47 


... 34| 


,, 


.. 37 


48 ., 


... 34* 




... .3.^.^, 


49 ,. 


... 342 


., 


... 35 


50 „ 


... .^•". 


.. 


.. :^4 



BUSINESS COATS, &c. 



FROCK COATS. 



2G inches long, .. 


. . 28 inches long 


27i 


29i 


»» 


28 


... 30' 




29i 


... 3U 




30 


... 32' 




3U 


... 33A 




32 


... 34' 




32A 


... 34i 




33 


... 35 




33i 


... .35i 




34" 


... 30' 




34^ 


... 301 




35] 


... 37i 




35 A 


... 37i 




353 


... 37 J 




30 


... 38 




30 


... 38 




.30i 


... 38J 




3CA 


381 




30 J 


... 38 J 




■'►( 


... 30 





ailA^DXJA.TED TABLES 



FOR 



VESTS AND PAITALOONS. 



Breast. 


22 


inches 


23 


j» 


24 


>t 


25 


» 


2G 


»> 


27 


» 


28 


» 


29 


)j 


30 


)j 


31 


>» 


32 


?) 


33 


i> 


34 


M 


35 


»J 


3C 


JJ 


37 


!) 


38 


11 


39 


It 


40 


t> 


41 


»» 


42 


)» 


43 


}| 


44 


H 


45 


» 


46 


JJ 


47 


>» 


48 


»> 


49 


») 



LisoTn. 


16 inches 


17 


>» 


18 


»» 


19 


If 


20 


)» 


20J 


>l 


21 


>» 


2U 


it 


22 


J» 


22.1 


!> 


23" 


?> 


23" 


» 


24 


J> 


24i 


)» 


25 


J> 


25i 


*» 


26 


>> 


26i 


J» 


27 


n 


27i 


J) 


28" 


)» 


28J 


n 


281 


>» 


29 


)> 


29 


)» 


29] 


»» 


29i 


'> 


29^ 


T» 



30 





ft'AIOT. 


22 inches 


23 


»» 


24 


11 


25 


11 


26 


11 


27 


11 


28 


J' 


29 


11 


30 


11 


31 


11 


32 


11 


33 


1> 


34 


,, 


35 


11 


36 


11 


37 


11 


38 


)» 


39 


11 


40 


It 


41 


t1 


42 


11 


43 


11 


44 


11 


45 


It 


46 


11 


47 


11 


48 


11 


49 


11 


50 


11 





Lko. 


... 16 inches long 


...18 


11 


... 20 


It 


... 24 


It 


... 25 


11 


... 26 


11 


... 27 


11 


... 28 


11 


... 29 


11 


... 30 


11 


... 31 


11 


... 32 


11 


... 33 


11 


... 34 


11 


... 35 


11 


... 34 


» 


... 32 


It 


... 31 


It 


... 30J 


II 


... 30j 


i> 


... 30i 


11 


... 29^ 


>i 


... 29J 


ff 


... 29J 


»i 


... 29 


11 


... 29 


11 


... 29 


» 


... 29 


11 


... 29 





